A mate just called from the beach:
"Town is waist to chest with the occasional shoulder high set, lined up but inconsistent. Country is a foot overhead, slightly onshore and closing out with four guys out and a lot of water moving around. Should've brought the 6'6 but fuck it, I have nothing else to do but shred all day."
Read books when not shredding:
Surfers Code (Shaun Tomson)