A mate just called from the beach:
"Town is waist to chest with the occasional shoulder high set, lined up but inconsistent. Country is a foot overhead, slightly onshore and closing out with four guys out and a lot of water moving around. Should've brought the 6'6 but fuck it, I have nothing else to do but shred all day."
Read books when not shredding:
Dora Lives
Surfers Code (Shaun Tomson)
Essential Surfing
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3 comments:
I just ordered a couple of your suggested books -- I'm looking forward checking them out.
we do mailorder!
Sorry -- I was assuming those were just suggestions of good things to read, not actually stuff in the shop. Next time I'll drag my ass out there, which I need to do anyway.
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