Saturday, August 2, 2008

Keep It Physical


Some of my favorite surfers have only been surfing a few years and most of the people I grew up surfing with in New York no longer surf. There are a few but only a handful. I remember your wave and when you first paddled out. Some remember mine. But it wasn't until I quit surfing that I began enjoying it the most. Right before this happened, I'd been surfing at night, not to avoid crowds but to disguise any hint of joy revealed while sliding the glide. The less I surf the more I try to look like a surfer and the more fun I have.

14 comments:

Franco S. Boroughs said...

shorty looks fly in her sweat tee

Paul and Heidi said...

Could you post of your inventory on boards in stock for everyone to froth upon for upcoming hurricane run, so we can get our quiver together!!!

Mr. Notime said...

I kinda wish I had a good remark here, all my damn buddies i grew up surfing with in my formidle(spelt wrong) have stopped surfing or moved away--ahem mikey singles

Mr. Notime said...

meant formidable years

toddy said...

I have my 'surfy look' covered.
And I have been reading my 'surfy books' and watching my 'surfy movies and practicing my bad ukulele playing.
Just getting ready, you know, for that one moment every few weeks, or months, I actually make it into the water.

Yep, feels great.

Anonymous said...

Isn't that the discription of a HODAD?

Mr. Lentini said...

Hodad wow --I prefer squidlips

for all of you that got that refrence amen

Sasha said...

Sometimes i smell savory but feel delicious!

l.i.e. said...
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Anonymous said...
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dorado said...

I bet she rides a board shaped by XANADU!..... brings back memories of my very early teens ... Olivia Newton John was the OG Cougar ....

l.i.e. said...
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jarito said...

i really liked the sentiment of this post and in particular the line: I remember your wave and when you first paddled out. Some remember mine.

Reminds me of that supposed Kurt Vonnegut MIT speech:

Understand that friends come and go, but with a precious few you should hold on. Work hard to bridge the gaps in geography and lifestyle, because the older you get, the more you need the people who knew you when you were young.

Shipworm&Gribble said...

epic reference jarito! respect