Saturday, August 2, 2008

Keep It Physical


Some of my favorite surfers have only been surfing a few years and most of the people I grew up surfing with in New York no longer surf. There are a few but only a handful. I remember your wave and when you first paddled out. Some remember mine. But it wasn't until I quit surfing that I began enjoying it the most. Right before this happened, I'd been surfing at night, not to avoid crowds but to disguise any hint of joy revealed while sliding the glide. The less I surf the more I try to look like a surfer and the more fun I have.
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14 comments:

  1. AnonymousAugust 2, 2008 at 3:06 PM

    shorty looks fly in her sweat tee

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  2. Paul and HeidiAugust 2, 2008 at 3:24 PM

    Could you post of your inventory on boards in stock for everyone to froth upon for upcoming hurricane run, so we can get our quiver together!!!

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  3. Mr. LentiniAugust 2, 2008 at 3:37 PM

    I kinda wish I had a good remark here, all my damn buddies i grew up surfing with in my formidle(spelt wrong) have stopped surfing or moved away--ahem mikey singles

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  4. Mr. LentiniAugust 2, 2008 at 3:38 PM

    meant formidable years

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  5. AnonymousAugust 2, 2008 at 5:09 PM

    I have my 'surfy look' covered.
    And I have been reading my 'surfy books' and watching my 'surfy movies and practicing my bad ukulele playing.
    Just getting ready, you know, for that one moment every few weeks, or months, I actually make it into the water.

    Yep, feels great.

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  6. AnonymousAugust 2, 2008 at 5:10 PM

    Isn't that the discription of a HODAD?

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  7. Mr. LentiniAugust 2, 2008 at 9:03 PM

    Hodad wow --I prefer squidlips

    for all of you that got that refrence amen

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  8. UnknownAugust 3, 2008 at 6:54 AM

    Sometimes i smell savory but feel delicious!

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  9. AnonymousAugust 3, 2008 at 10:31 AM

    This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  10. AnonymousAugust 4, 2008 at 4:48 PM

    This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  11. doradoAugust 4, 2008 at 7:56 PM

    I bet she rides a board shaped by XANADU!..... brings back memories of my very early teens ... Olivia Newton John was the OG Cougar ....

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  12. AnonymousAugust 4, 2008 at 10:08 PM

    This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  13. jaritoAugust 5, 2008 at 11:26 AM

    i really liked the sentiment of this post and in particular the line: I remember your wave and when you first paddled out. Some remember mine.

    Reminds me of that supposed Kurt Vonnegut MIT speech:

    Understand that friends come and go, but with a precious few you should hold on. Work hard to bridge the gaps in geography and lifestyle, because the older you get, the more you need the people who knew you when you were young.

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  14. ShipwormAndGribbleAugust 5, 2008 at 2:35 PM

    epic reference jarito! respect

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